We had risen early, to bike the beach trail east towards the town of San Pedro.
Our day would be more off, than on, the island. We were going on a lobster- BBQ adventure!
After breakfast at the Plantation House (an indulgent affair — mimosas, juicy mangoes, parsleyed eggs Benedict, all enjoyed on our casita patio overlooking the palms and sea), Juan, our guide, whisked us off the dock and down to the mangroves, to net sardines in the generations-old manner he had learned from his grandfather. His trained eye scanned for the silver clouds and he tossed and scooped with the rhythm of a dancer, until our cache was full and we were off to the reef!
Time to lobster!
Turned out, actually hooking the crafty crustaceans was not as easy as it looked! My type-A son slapped the water and cursed the reef gods, until he finally got the hang of it and snagged more than a dozen! I even hooked one, and got an “assist” on a second!
We hyperventilated in the waves, but we’d dive down again, and chase more of them around, making our lungs scream as we pulled at the “carports”, trying to force them out of hiding.
I had been curious all day, about the bulging sack of dried coconut husks in the cockpit, but what a perfect fuel for our beach bonfire! In a shallow pit beneath some palmetto, the coals smoldered. Juan cleaned and foiled our catch, spiced it up with onions, lemon, and his secret ingredient….mayonnaise! I had turn my eyes from the fat but I couldn’t resist the the scents and sizzles that soon came off our fire, and the resulting feast was madefiner only by the isolated cove and mirror blue waters which became our lunchroom.
After our lobstering adventure, late afternoon was anti-climactic. We motored out to Shark Ray alley, where we chummed the triggerfish amidst dozens of nurse sharks, and Doug actually got to barrel-hug one of them! They seem to get in a trance when you turn them over and rub their bellies…..the trick is to get them turned over!